JAKARTA – The year 2025 brings fresh air in the world of makeup. Warm colors such as bronze and chocolate that used to dominate, are now starting to be displaced by the sharper gray and EDgy nuances.
From the red carpet to the runway, this cold makeup look is in the spotlight thanks to stars like Doechii, Dua Lipa, to Julia Fox.
If in the past the gray color was synonymous with the dull or even scary impression, now it appears as a symbol of self-confidence and maturity. This was confirmed by Terry Barber, Director of Artificial Makeup MAC for the UK and European regions.
“A performance that is too perfect and untouched in a warm feel, suddenly feels less chic,” explained Barber, quoted from the What Wear page.
“Adding gray or cold colors doesn’t have to look like a Halloween look. It’s a matter of showing confidence and maturity,” he continued.
One of the most iconic moments in this trend came from the 2025 Grammys stage. Rapper Doechii looks stunning with gray smokey makeup aligned with a matching suit.
Makeup artist Dee Carrion, the figure behind this look, uses the Urban Decay Naked2 Basics palette to create both dramatic and modern effects.
“We want to create a monochromatic look with a shimmer game and a brown-gray contact lens to balance the look,” said Carrion.
This trend does not stop at Doechii. Dua Lipa, Gabbriette, to Lily-Rose Depp also began to appear with gray eyeshadows, gredge lipstick (gray to beige), to captivating eyeliner silver.
Even on the New York Fashion Week stage, Luar Fall presents a model with thick eye makeup, blue-and-white eyeshadow.
“The display is like a glamorous late 80s supermodel meeting the DIY drag club,” said Barber, who handled makeup for the show.
“I want the look to be almost wrong. Even though the makeup looks finished, the actual results are not perfect. This is a true form of art.” he added.
Not only the eyes, this trend also penetrates the lips. Lipstick nude is now more present with a blue or gray undertone. Even MAC responded to this trend by re-released classic lip liners such as Fleshpot, Cool Spice, and Hodgepodge which had disappeared from the market.
Makeup of artists as well as people who are already struggling in the beauty industry, Erin Parsons also contributes influence through the viral TikTok video.
“I mentioned that many of today’s products feel too orange, and from the incoming comments, obviously I’m not alone,” said Parsons. The comparison video between the old and new MAC Spice has been viewed more than 5 million times.
No need to change your entire makeup collection. The key lies in pairing and emphasizing one facial feature.
“Start with a cold shimmer in the eye corner or lip liner greete,” Rushon suggested.
“The gray eye makeup with beige lips? It always looks chic.” added Barber.
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